img80.jpgThis week in the Times, Bruni goes to Gemma in the Bowery Hotel for Italian, awards the restaurant one star. Calls it a “cheat sheet” of a restaurant that recalls Morandi, but with a less skilled chef. “It’s also Morandi in a smarter, sexier outfit, with more charismatic, fluid service. That’s it’s saving grace,” he says.

Ryan Sutton stops by Tailor for Bloomberg News. Says “two evil geniuses [Sam Mason and mixologist Eben Freeman, both formerly of WD-50] practice their diabolical craft here.” Also says that all this may just be dessert masquerading as dinner. Sweet dishes are salty; salty dishes sweet. And there’s lots of foam involved.

Moira Hodgson goes to Alex Urena’s Pamplona for the NY Observer, says “Pamplona’s menu is thrilling. I wanted to try every dish.” Loves the salt-cured tuna, and says that Urena’s paella is “superb” and “one of the best I’ve eaten in New York.” But skip the desserts.

In the NY Sun, Paul Adams goes to Chef Orhan Yegan’s Sea Salt in the East Village. Says the whole grilled fish (one can order many different varieties) provide “a water mark up to which one can hold other fish for comparison.”

And Restaurant Girl three-stars Crave Ceviche Bar, says the restaurant “heralds both a new breed of chef and an exciting genre in what remains relatively uncharted territory.” Meaning that she likes Chef Todd Mitgang’s ceviche.