From left: Miguel Rosell, Glen Goodwin, Sam Mason and Wylie Dufresne; Photo by Ting-Li Wang, The New York Times

The Post rustles up a food critic and sends Steve Cuozzo the Lower East Side and WD-50 and loves Wylie Dufresne's food. In fact, he writes, "Its brand of modern-American cooking is witty but not wacky." Later on, he says that pastry chef Sam Mason's desserts are "kooky without being kinky." Gothamist would like further details if in fact Dufresne is witty but not wacky and if Sam Mason is kooky without being kinky in real life.

WD-50's 'boring' interior; Photo - NY PostCuozzo extends the it's like this and it's like that in his mixed review of the space:
Dufresne weaves his spell in a bland barn with bare wood tables, an ugly onyx wall panel and cheap-looking blown-glass light fixtures. WD-50 must be the first restaurant where the kitchen, sleekly tiled in black and white, is prettier than the dining room. It's fun gazing through open doors and watching Dufresne hover like a proud papa over every dish.

It's true, there's nothing like seeing a restaurant's kitchen. Some restaurants Gothamist likes for the voyeur factor: The table in the kitchen at Le Bernardin, watching the staff at Jean Georges putter around the gleaming kitchen from the plaza of the Trump International, or, best, settling in at the counter of Supper in the East Village, watching them tend to the bollito misto on the weekends. Of course, everyone will get to peek inside Rocco DiSpirito's kitchen starting this Sunday.

Below 14th on everything WD-50. And Gothamist wondered about this picture of WD-50's chefs earlier.