New York magazine's Gael Greene on Per Se: "Fate was a cruel bitch to Thomas Keller, shooting flames up the wall of his precious kitchen, closing down his $14 million Per Se in its infancy."

Gothamist wonders how Thomas Keller (pictured, right) feels about being fate's bitch, but we guess he's probably cool with it since French Laundry was named the world's best restaurant by Restaurant Magazine (although we feel the list is definitely UK-biased). [via kottke]

Gael Greene's food writings archive at New York. And Per Se is at the Time Warner Center.