We've got biscuits and nuggets and even mayonnaise shops, and now, finally, a little place dedicated exclusively to ceviche. A new Union Square eatery gives us the next of the niche food offerings in the form of cold cooked seafoods served in bowls, burritos and tacos. Cevich recently opened on 15th Street, the brainchild of two former Miami Beach natives who had dreamed of "owning a restaurant in the most cutthroat real estate and restaurant market in the world." Crazy as that may sound, we each have our own aspirations, and the duo now dish out their shrimp, salmon and white fish dishes created by chef Evelyn Alberto.

A visit here starts by deciding the delivery method for one's ceviche, including plain and simple "Solo" ($12 - 14) or in a "Bowl" ($15) with either mixed greens, coconut rice or a $1.50 addition for quinoa. Then it's about style, including "Wild Tiger" (a traditional Peruvian style with citrus, white corn, red onion and cilantro), "Santorini" (kalamata olive sauce with red onion, cucumber, cherry tomatoes and feta), or Summer Daze (guava-mint-grapefruit sauce with watermelon, cucumber and red onion). Finally, select your seafood or opt for a "Mixto" (extra $2) of all three.

Pre-designed tacos and burritos are also on offer, like the Roman Holiday ($12), a burrito stuffed with white fish, thai basil pesto, olives, coconut rice, tomato and red pepper, or the Mexidorian tacos with Ecuadorian shrimp, avocado, a black bean-white corn salsa and red cabbage. Snag two tacos for $9 or three for $12 and supplement with a dollop of fresh guacamole ($2) or a side of chips and salsa for $6.

For now, Cevich is a decidedly grab-and-go operation, with only 10 bar stools at two counters and a lone hammock chair in a corner. But Union Square is a mere half block away for al fresco dining and with your eyes closed, that slight wind from the traffic down Broadway can almost pass for a beach breeze.

21 East 15th Street; cevich.com

Cevich Menu 1

Cevich Menu 2