The bacon-wrapped matzo balls are out and octopus za'atar are in at the new restaurant inside Williamsburg's Urban Outfitters. Chef Ilan Hall has nixed The Gorbals and ushered in the era of Esh, which the Times says means "fire" in Hebrew. To that end, expect extensive use of the restaurant's large wood-fired grill, which you can see in action from a seat at the open kitchen.

On the menu, lots of roasty things including wood-grilled celeriac and smoked butter-roasted cabbage, a nice nod to vegetarians. Meats like pork ribs and octopus are spiced with za'atar seasonings, while the beef ribs are treated shawarma-style. A few holdovers from the old menu, like the Chicken Schnitzel and the sticky toffee pudding, have made the cut at the revamp.

The third floor eatery is basically hidden from the street, so it's possible attracting foot traffic has been an issue since the opening. The space does boast a lovely rooftop deck, which attracts seasonal boozers, and the bar's offering a $10 burger and a Radeberger beer deal, which should bring in some deal-seekers.