Nearly three years ago, haute Japanese spot Sushi Nakazawa caused a sensation in the NYC dining community, earning round-the-city praise and even a nigh-on-impossible four stars from the NY Times. Now, a veteran of both Nakazawa and the venerable Sushi Yasuda has struck out on his own with Akashi, serving omakase kappo beginning on Wednesday in the West Village.

The omakase kappo style means Executive Chef Yoichi Akashi has full control over what you'll be eating each evening. Guests are seated in waved installments at the 10 seat counter or one of the eight tables. Then, course after course materialize from behind the sushi counter, where Akashi and crew "cut, boil, stew, and fry"—the literal translation of "kappo"—fish, meats and vegetables.

Akashi's flying in much of his product from Japan, which meant a delay in opening following a typhoon that hit the country in late September. A meal might begin with Broiled Sicilian Eggplant with White Miso and Hamo (Conger Pike) and Matsutake Mushroom Tempura, before moving on to sashimi, then sushi, and ultimately dessert. By the evening's conclusion, diners will have tasted between 18 and 20 courses and parted with over $200. One thing's for certain: bone up on your uni before you make the trip.

14 Christopher Street, (212) 367-2067;