Much of the news coming out of Zone A and flood-ravaged sections of the city is about death and destruction. But from Gowanus today, news of rebirth: Fletcher's Brooklyn Barbecue makes its grand opening tonight at 5 p.m. While cleanup from the toxic canal's overflow happens down the street, the little BBQ spot that could was "spared" and able to open on time. "There's lots of excitement here," says owner Bill "BBQ Billy" Fletcher. "I think people are looking for a good place to enjoy a plate of smoked meat and a beer."

When it comes to their meat, Fletcher's slow-smokes humanely raised brisket, ribs, pork shoulder and other cuts in a 2,600 pound, bright red, J&R Pit with oak and maple woods. Matt Fisher, former pit master at R.U.B. BBQ (the Chelsea restaurant that got the accidental "Hummer Remodel"), has teamed up with Fletcher to bring authentic American BBQ to the menu. Meats are available by the pound, with pork shoulder and ribs running for $19/lb and beef brisket for $24/lb, or on a sandwich with slaw, pickles and other crunchy toppings. Specials like Char Siu pork belly and maple smoked Red Wattle Pork Loin appear on a rotating basis, as well as a rotating slider menu and barbecue tacos. Traditional barbecue accompaniments like pickles, mac and cheese and baked beans and local beers and "hand-selected" bourbon and rye are available as well.

Like Fette Sau in Williamsburg, Fletcher's serves its food cafeteria-style and diners can take their food back to the 50-seat dining area or snag a seat at the 6-seat, salvaged wood bar. We haven't seen the space yet but we're told the tables are "built like tanks" and the atmosphere is "inspired by Gowanus' industrial history" with lights hung on steel bars and a "floating wood, gullwing ceiling with illuminated troughs." Guess that's the kind of thing you have to see in person to understand.

433 Third Avenue, Brooklyn // 347-763-2680