The Williamsburg Bridge may not be the city's most famous or beloved bridge, but its industrial suspensions can be as romantic as any when viewed from a cozy booth with a cocktail in hand. That's just what awaits at All Hands, the new restaurant that offerings picturesque views of the bridge with homey plates of seafood on the menu.

Chef Peter Lipson—whose resume includes stints around the world in addition to credits in parts of the Empellon empire, as well as Northern Spy—channels his varied career into the ocean, presenting dishes almost entirely sourced from the sea. Bluefish cured in sake comes with hunks of grapefruit doused in fish sauce with herbs. Passatelli—which are noodles formed from breadcrumbs—serves as a base for littleneck clams with rich Calabrian chili, smoked pecorino and more crunchy breadcrumbs.

Craig Shillitto, a designer who took on another Williamsburg opening, Lilia, this year, lived in the two story warehouse building before its transformation into All Hands. The darker downstairs bar and seating area offers views of Lipson and team in the kitchen, while the second floor bar and seating area affords those dramatic bridge views.

The beverages curated by director Anna-Lisa Campos lean towards organic and biodynamic wines, an area increasingly mined by city somms and beverage directors.

29 Dunham Place, 718-963-0078;