Chicken Tikka RollThe sandwich wrap has gotten out of hand. Thanks to the legacy of the low-carb movement, our old friend bread has been thinned out to near nothingness. In most wraps, it's treated like a necessary evil, just there to hold everything together. But this is not so with the Indian roti—what you might call the original wrap. At Roomali, one of several new roti shops in the city, you can sample an array of delicious roti wraps and actually enjoy the bread as well as the filling.

Start with the Chicken Tikka Roll. You can watch as one of the cooks threads chunks of boneless chicken breast, colored red from a spicy marinade, onto long skewers and then roasts them quickly in a tandoor oven (which looks like an old-fashioned washing machine). A piquant cilantro-based green sauce dresses most of the sandwiches—as well as, curiously, shreds of iceberg (perhaps a concession to the American mindset that excludes from sandwichdom anything without that insipid lettuce).

For the ultimate backlash to carbo-phobia there is the aloo channa roll. The filling here consists of potatoes (aloo) and chickpeas (channa) that are mashed together with pungent spices like cumin and coriander. There are several other delicious vegetarian options that combine aloo or channa with panir, fresh homemade cheese. You can get a smooth and creamy chai masala hot tea to wash it all down.

All the rotis here are made to order, the bread slapped down on a hot griddle to give it the characteristic slight spots of char on both sides. The simple, unleavened bread gets puffy and chewy, and has a nice sheen of ghee (clarified butter) brushed on to keep it moist. They range from $4 to $5 each and come wrapped into long tight packages that are easy to eat on the go. But with these wraps you'll be sure to notice—and enjoy—the bread.

(entrance on East 27th Street between Lexington and Third Avenues)