If you want fresh, it makes sense to go straight to the source. So if you crave fish and chips, why not go to a fish shop? Wild Edibles, the premiere purveyor of fresh seafood in the city, also offers a full menu of ready-to-eat dishes at its Murray Hill location. There are plenty of fancy options from shrimp gazpacho to macadamia-crusted soft-shell crabs, but what really hits the spot is plain fried fish.
Here they use a real beer batter for an extra-light and crispy coating with plenty of nooks and crannies, and the cod comes in several giant fillets (at $10 it ought to be generous). On the side come lemon slices, a modern touch instead of malt vinegar, as well as a thick tartar sauce that tastes like it could be homemade, rich and flecked with paprika. The chips are assuredly not authentic pub style. Skinny, crunchy, and without a speck of peel, they are more reminiscent of McDonald’s—but in a good way.