Gothamist's Star Chefs report is brought to us by Regina Varolli, a Manhattan-based freelance writer. Though most of her private clients are in DC, she lives here because the food is better, in general.
On day two of the International Chefs Congress, Pierre Hermé was announced as “The God of Pastry.” With many foreign chefs requiring English assistance, only Hermé had award-winning cookbook author Dori Greenspan as his translator, pictured below. With Hermé on stage at Covenant House, the spectators became devout worshippers. And when the dessert Hermé made was passed to the audience directly from the stage, you’d think they were giving away winning lottery tickets by the reaction of hopeful would-be tasters.
With assistant André Loutsch demonstrating how to make a Tarte Ispahan, the jovial Hermé discussed “Taste Architecture”—his method of choosing fixed flavor components and developing them into myriad different desserts. The Ispahan components—rose, lychee, and raspberry—have been developed into nineteen different forms: cakes, ice creams, petit-four, etc. Though Hermé is known throughout the U.S., he has no store here. But here’s a secret, if you’d like to try an Ispahan, head to Bouley Bakery where Chef Patissier Damien Herrgott, four-year veteran Chef of Pierre Hermé in Paris, creates the closest thing you’ll get in the U.S.
Masaharu Morimoto, did he ever lose an Iron Chef battle? In full Japanese attire, Morimoto showed off his sword-sharp skills, his sense of humor, and several large pieces of fish. He presented a 4-foot long octopus tentacle, a foot-long strand of salmon roe, and a piece of Toro so marbled it made him think of Prosciutto, “Toro-sciutto” he said giggling. Aided by three assistants, the bouncy yet disciplined Morimoto prepared Irisake (plum vinegar and sake reduction), abalone, and authentic Dashi. The only disappointing thing about this demonstration was that the audience could smell these delicious dishes, they just couldn’t taste them.
Unlike his creations, Chef Wylie Dufresne of wd~50, pictured below, is casual and down-to-Earth. Like elBulli’s Adrià, what Wylie wanted to show us couldn’t be done in-house, so he narrated a demo film. Giving the attendees a sneak preview of his new menu, Wylie explained the techniques and chemicals being used for deconstructed “Egg, Bacon and Toast” and “Cassoulet.” The “cassoulet” is made with pine nuts cooked in a pressure-cooker for four hours, Wylie said “Let’s really upset people by not using beans.” When explaining “Egg, Bacon and Toast” he remarked that “Toast is rarely liquid”—as if toast is ever liquid—then proceeded to tell us how he liquefied his. Who thinks of liquid toast? Wylie Dufresne, that’s who. If you have yet to try wd~50, go.
