Detroit-style, Neapolitan, robot, your classic slice—New York likes its pizza anyway it can take it (except Chicago "pizza," GTFO with that stuff). NYC's newest pizzeria Ops, officially opening Saturday in Bushwick, is making wood-fired pies with a sourdough starter, which points to a lively, flavorful crust you're not likely to find at your corner pizzeria.

"It is rare to make pizza with wild yeast, especially in NYC," says Mike Fadem, who along with Marie Tribouilloy and Gavin Compton, is running the restaurant. "I'm not sure why, maybe because it's more volatile and less consistent, but I believe the extra work pays off in flavor and texture." Ops will join spots like Wheated in Flatbush using the special yeast. The trio have an impressive collected resume that includes Estela, Marlow & Songs, Buvette, Achilles Heel and Blue Collar.

Beyond the interesting pies, you'll find antipasti served in the "peasant tradition," natural wines by the glass and a cocktail program built around European spirits like amari and...bottles of Budweiser.

346 Himrod Street; Open for dinner Wednesday - Sunday from 5 p.m. to midnight, with extended hours coming soon.