It might be a little bit like dining inside a well-appointed terrarium at Llama Inn, a new Peruvian restaurant that opened last night at the nexus of Withers and Meeker in Williamsburg. Three of the restaurant's four walls are practically made of windows, which makes for excellent people watching from inside and optimal dinner peeping from without. Next spring, they'll open up their rooftop, too, which'll give a bird's eye view of the intersection and a closer inspection of BQE traffic rumbling by above.

Chef Erik Ramirez (a former sous chef at Eleven Madison Park and elsewhere) traveled to Peru to deepen the connection to his Peruvian heritage and find inspiration for the dishes he's serving here. Anticucho—skewered meats served as street foods—include Beef Heart ($4), very typical of the style, and nobs of succulent Pork Belly ($4). We're on board for any dish that includes its own chips, as with the Fluke Ceviche ($16) flavored with lime, red onion and cilantro and topped with plantain chips.

Fans of Peruvian rotisserie chicken can opt for a Whole Roasted Chicken ($42) served with fried potatoes and fiery aji sauces. The Beef Tenderloin Stir Fry ($54) looks to feed a small army with hunks of tender beef cooked in soy sauce, red onion and tomato and topped with french fries, with crocks of pickled chilies and peppers, slices of avocado and scallion pancakes served on the side.

50 Withers Street, Williamsburg, (718) 387-3434; website

Llama Inn Menu