Restaurateur Gabe Stulman has pulled a mulligan on his year and a half old restaurant Chez Sardine, reopening the former Izakaya into a cocktail-focused watering hole with some fancy bar bites, known henceforth as Bar Sardine. Gone is what Times critic Pete Wells dubbed Asian stoner food, replaced with a more conventional menu of foodstuffs designed with the "classic neighborhood bar" in mind...if your classic neighborhood bar serves soy and black garlic deviled eggs and arctic char tartare with everything bagel pretzels, that is. And these days, it probably does!

The food menu looks tasty, to be sure, especially the stacked Fedora Burger ($10), topped with smoked cheddar, crispy potatoes, cucumbers and a BBQ mayo. But the crew is apparently "crazy" about the beverage program, which includes cocktails by Brian Bartels, who's the Director of Bar Operations for Stulman's other eateries. Zanily-named cocktails include things like Dance Up That Alley ($13), made with two types of gin, coconut water and cucumber. Save Big Money won't actually do that (the drink costs $13 also) but the peanut pine liqueur-based drink certainly sounds fascinating.

They're barrel-aging cocktails too, like the Simon's Boulevard made with Campari, bourbon and sweet vermouth and another made with tequila and dry cuacao (Grandmama #2). Wines and beers are available by the glass and bottle; a 10 ounce pour of Ommegang Witte sets you back $5 while a can of Two Brothers SideKick Pale Ale runs $7.

183 West 10th Street, 646-360-3705; website

Bar Sardine Menu