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Willis Loughhead Brings Nose-to-Tail Fare to Country


<p>That puck of housemade liverwurst is exquisite, as is the triangle of crispy pork terrine. Creamy, crunchy, fatty and shot through with tiny Sicilian pistachios, it's like the scrapple of the gods. If you dig offal, don't look too closely because you can see ribbons of ear. Then again if a little pig ear bothers you, you’re probably not a big scrapple fan. The housemade Serrano-style ham and mortadella are also quite good.</p>


<p>The smoky rich pork morcilla, or blood sausage is seasoned with mace, coriander and cayenne. Loughhead sourced the spices for his merguez from Tunisia. The skinny link pops with orange, cinnamon, fennel, cayenne, pepper, cumin, coriander and spicy paprika. For good measure he adds some garlic and harissa.</p>



<p>Country's sea scallop with pork belly, artichoke, shaved fennel and chicken jus is simply amazing. Through some sort of surf and turf alchemy the flavors of the crispy pork belly and ultrafresh scallop echo each other. “The bacon-wrapped scallop is an appetizer that goes back to the 1950s,” Loughhead modestly points out.</p>


<p>Who needs butter when you have homemade liverwurst?</p>


<p>Loughhead even went so far as to build his own smoker out of a room-service box. He uses it to smoke the beef tongue that accents this dish of wild striped bass with fava beans and roasted tomato.</p>