The latest in our Quick Bites series brings us to Flatbush Avenue for the best new burger in town.
THE VIBE
Rose's Bar and Grill is Francine Stephens and Andrew Feinberg's brand new restaurant on Flatbush Avenue, taking over the spot where they first opened their pizza-based place Franny's back in 2004 (which was such a hit they moved it to a larger space across the avenue), followed by the rustic trattoria Marco's (which, despite some acclaim and lots of local love, worked out less well, closing at the end of last year).
Rose's, though, ditches the Italian theme altogether, bringing the couple's commitment to sustainable practices and their passion for creating community to that classic neighborhood hangout, the bar & grill. And man do they ever nail it.
(Scott Lynch/Gothamist)
The new spot is filled with of-the-moment Brooklyn touches, like the salvaged school-auditorium seats (at least, that's what they look like) turned into the bar-area booths, the "Eat" sign spelled out in Edison bulbs, and the decks of cards and board games at the ready. None of it feels forced—Stephens and Feinberg are the real deal, genuinely decent people doing what the love, not trying out marketing schemes—and the whole crew's warmth and welcoming spirit is palpable the moment you walk in the door. On both nights I went last week there were plenty of old-school Franny's regulars in the house, but Rose's doesn't come off as clubby, and even a stranger like me gets a big smile and just the right amount of chit-chat from the staff.
Of special note: Rose's still has that lovely, leafy garden in the back, so get in on that before summer gets too steamy.
THE BITES
Feinberg has returned to the kitchen full-time for Rose's, working the line for the first time in eight years. And though there are only 14 items on the Rose's menu right now (including desserts!) two things I ate are immediate contenders for my favorite dish of the year, and the other four I tried were pretty great as well. Stephens told me the menu will get longer at some point, that Feinberg's a perfectionist who wanted make sure they didn't overreach at the start, but whatever, it's working.
Amazing dish number one is Rose's Hamburger with French Fries, which I ordered medium rare with cheese. Now, it takes a lot of confidence these days to send out a burger with no toppings, no special sauce, no bragging about your blends, but that's exactly what Feinberg is doing. You get a standard-sized patty, juicy and complex; some sort of sharpish melted cheese; a toasted, buttery sesame seed bun. Your server will offer you ketchup but you don't need it. Maybe for your fries, which are also top-of-the-line. I can't tell you exactly why this is so good (I didn't ask for Feinberg's secret), but in a city exploding with excellent new burgers, Rose's may have the absolute best.
Amazing dish number two, and maybe even better than the burger, is advertised simply as Split Pork. How often have you been disappointed by a restaurant's pork chop? For me it's like 93% of the time, so I rarely ever order it anymore, but at Rose's it seemed like the biggest test of the kitchen's prowess, so I took the risk for journalism's sake. And oh man this is remarkable. Feinberg brines and rubs the sweet fatty swine, then spit-roasts it back there in his wood-burning grill, and... well one bite will tell you all you need to know. The tangle of bitter, oily greens greens also rule.
The other entree-ish item was also very good: a hearty and lively Egg and Mushroom sandwich on thick slices of toast, but unless you don't eat meat, definitely get one of the other two options above first. The Bar Salad is solid, a crisp and refreshing mixture topped with a tangy buttermilk dressing, and the Fried Olives are ridiculously tasty—there are green olives stuffed with ham under that seasoned breading—and won't last more than 38 seconds on your table.
On both my visits to Rose's I was too full to dive into the bigger desserts (Hot Fudge Sundae, Buttermilk Pie), but the crumbly, almondy Bar Cookie I brought home one night was terrific even the next morning with coffee.
THE VERDICT
If you live anywhere near Rose's you should go eat there immediately. And though it doesn't read as a destination restaurant, you're going to have to make the trip if you want to be taken seriously in any Best NYC Burger conversations going forward. Rose's is also nicely situated for all of your pre- and/or post Barclays Center food and booze requirements, and even BAM or the Brooklyn Museum aren't that far away.
Rose's Bar and Grill is located at 295 Flatbush Avenue, between Prospect Place and St. Marks Avenue. The bar opens at 4 p.m. every day, and the kitchen works its magic from 5 to 11 p.m. on Wednesday through Sunday only. IMPORTANT: only snacks are available on Mondays and Tuesdays, not the full menu, so plan accordingly. (718-230-0427; rosesbklyn.com)
