"I am very skeptical of real gefilte fish, since fish should never have the same consistency as a sponge," Rebecca Fishbein, Gothamist's newly-minted taste tester, said after sampling a new dish from forthcoming restaurant Nur. "But this 'gefilte shrimp' concoction is more like the inside of a shrimp dumpling than suspicious fish sponge, and it is quite good." Topped with orbs of dashi gelee, with fuschia chrain—a horseradish condiment with beets—and pickled vegetables, this isn't quite the same as your grandmother's seder version of the polarizing dish.
Breads Bakery owner Gadi Peleg—who seems to have begun the babka renaissance in NYC—along with Israeli chef Meir Adoni are behind the new Gramercy restaurant, which opens Friday. The two are taking Middle Eastern and Jewish dishes and adapting them (as with the gefilte fish), or mining them for flavors to add to other global preparations like sashimi and vichyssoise.
Fans of offal have much to explore, including a Brain Fricasse ($29) served with accoutrements on a croissant and a sage butter-roasted Sweetbread Vichyssoise ($31) with black garlic powder. Those averse to eating brains and glands have plenty to chose from, though, like an excellent Smoked Eggplant Carpaccio ($17), a creamy dip with feta and tahini; Casablanca Chraime ($36) fish stew with tomato, couscous and a flavorful pumpkin sauce; and bread. Ohhhh the bread.
Unsurprisingly, Nur offers excellent baked goods, in particular their kubaneh, a buttery, croissant-like bread they were kind enough to also deliver to Gothamist's new Midtown digs. Drag it through whatever sauce/dip/liquid is nearest and feel thankful to be alive.
34 East 20th Street, (212) 505-3420; nurnyc.com