What makes a New Yorker a New Yorker? The eternal question is of such importance that they even debate it half-way around the world in Hong Kong.

The Journal took a look at a few New York-style restaurants that are opening up in the city and finds that even so far from home claiming to be an authentic New Yorker counts for something. While one restaurant owner they talk to claims to be a New Yorker through-and-through (he emigrated when he was 2 and lived in every borough but Staten Island before moving to Hong Kong in '07) another pair of owners disagree, throwing down the gauntlet that “you’re only a New Yorker if you were born there," which both of them were. And here we thought you just needed to walk quickly on the right side of the street?

Wondering what it takes to make a New York-style restaurant in Hong Kong, well, New York-style? It sounds to us like the trick is copying semi-recent trends: The piece talks about a restaurant that mimics Momofuku, a restaurant that mimics Blue Ribbon and a restaurant designed by New York-based design team AvroKO (who just did Beauty & Essex here). Also, tile work is apparently important. If all else fails though, just sell bagels and pizza.