Thank goodness it's bulky sweater and puffy jacket season because with all the comfort food eateries opening up we're poised to bust our buttons from all the fried turkey and melted cheese. There's no cause for complaint, though, when the decadent eats are being created by a Blue Smoke veteran, as is the case with FiDi's newest eatery Route 66 Smokehouse. Billy Kooper, who worked as sous chef at Danny Meyer's barbecue enterprise, offers a culinary tribute to America's legendary roadway with contemporary editions of classic country fare.

As you may have guessed from the name and the pedigree, the restaurant offers plenty of barbecue options for meat lovers, including brisket, pulled pork and smoked chicken, available as platters or nestled inside an Anthony & Sons roll. Beyond the pit, Kooper puts his spin on Americana eats, like Deviled Eggs ($8) with peppery arugula, micro celery and a lemon vinaigrette; Fried Green Tomatoes ($10), which come with fried jalapenos and buttermilk ranch for dipping; and Shrimp & Grits ($20) with tasso ham and sauteed mushrooms. He also swaps out chicken for a daintier fowl in his Fried Quail & Waffle ($19), drizzled in truffle honey but keeps it more classic with the Fried Oyster Po' Boy ($17), seasoned with Tobasco remoulade and Old Bay.

Tipplers can enjoy an "All-American" whiskey selection stocked with quality bourbons, ryes and whiskeys. They're also doing craft beers, naturally, including Bear Republic Racer 5 IPA, Lefthound Milk Stout, Sixpoint Righteous Rye, a nice complement to savory bar snacks like Pork Clouds (aka pork rinds) and Toasted Corn Crunch, the chef's homemade version of salty Corn Nuts. Cocktails also channel the storied highway, highlighting the route's many natural and man-made curiosities like the Amboy Crater, the Whale of Catoosa, with Farmer's Organic gin, lime juice, Moscato D'Asti and a basil leaf, and the Tucumcari, NM, with Fireball Whiskey, amaretto, apple cider and a cinnamon stick.

79 Pearl Street, (212) 943-1602;

Route 66 Smokehouse Menu