In a city known for its hot dogs, it's about damn time we had a store dedicated to mustard, which also boasts the city's first and only mustard sommelier. Grub Street had a nice chat with Pierette Huttner, who holds the title at the Upper West Side outpost of France's Maille, a company dedicated to fine mustards. Think flavors like fig and coriander, sun-dried tomato and Espelette chili pepper and even one made with Parmesan cheese and basil.

As her job title demands, Huttner advises customers on mustard pairings; she recommends a whole-grain Chardonnay for hot dogs and blue cheese for pretzels. This also includes a selection of mustards "poured by hand" from a mustard tap. The mustards flow from a spigot into darling little stoneware jars, starting at $25 for a 4.4 ounce jar up to $99 for an 18.6-ounce jar of their black truffle variety. This is French mustard, not French's mustard. Pay up, people! At prices like that, the crusty-rimmed jar of Grey Poupon taking up space in your refrigerator door shouldn't have too much to worry about.

The Maille boutique is at 185 Columbus Ave, between 68th and 69th Streets, in Manhattan.