The first dish Big Mozz founder Matt Gallira ever served to the public was the Mozz Bomb, a made-to-order mound of mozzarella (formed right in front of you) injected with a syringe full of basil pesto. This was back in the spring of 2015—it was crazy delicious, and it earned the Big Mozz team a spot at Smorgasburg.

It wasn't too long, however, that the team's incomparable Mozz Sticks pushed aside the Bomb and completely took over the operation, and Big Mozz became a Smorgasburg megahit, a regular at festivals like Gov Ball, and opened up shop at venues like Forest Hills Stadium, Citi Field and Madison Square Garden. Definitely a Smorgasburg-as-incubator success story. The only thing lacking was a permanent, everyday home, a place where Gallira and chef Jimmy Warren could expand their offerings and experiment with the menu, and where we could eat their cheese whenever the craving hit. Now the dream has come true.

Last week Big Mozz The Restaurant opened in the always-bustling Chelsea Market, taking over a roomy corner counter facing 15th Street. (If you're familiar, it's where Very Fresh Noodles used to be, closer to 10th Avenue, in that warren of shops opposite Lobster Place.) There are about a dozen stools facing the open kitchen (in addition to the mozz-making, the breading machine is pretty cool to watch), some standing room, and plenty of communal seating by the windows. The Very Fresh crew left their neon signage behind when they relocated to a larger space within the market, and rather than tear it all down—neon like this is not cheap—Gallira simply stuck a "Mozzarella" stencil over the word "Noodle". Rebranding complete!

But the most exciting thing about the new Big Mozz is the expanded menu, highlighted by the return of the original, pesto-infused Mozz Bomb (see below), which is just as heavenly as I remember it.

Newcomers include party food like Chicken Parm Bites, coated and breaded to order and accompanied by a zippy red sauce, and Garlic Fries, which are crisp, well-seasoned, and of the waffle variety.

There are also two new sandwiches: a pressed Brooklyn Cubano the duo invented for their stint at Art Basel Miami last year, stuffed with vinegary pulled pork, melted mozzarella, and plenty of pickles; and a Caprese Pesto, which is basically a Bomb in sandwich format. And of course the famous Mozz Sticks are here as well, which I've eaten on dozens of occasions these past few years and which make me happy every single time. On tap is Root Beer, Kombucha, Cold Brew Coffee, and Lemonade, with beer and wine coming soon.

Big Mozz is located within Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Avenue, on the 15th Street side, and is open daily from 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. (bigmozz.com)