The versatility of the taco is being mined once again at a new DIY taqueria in Long Island City, Unico, that opened on Monday. Behind the concept is Suvir Saran, who runs internationally-inspired restaurant Tapestry, which opened last year in the West Village. Together with restaurateur Roni Mazumdar, Saran's offering "global tacos" in a choose-your-own-adventure-style setup of which tortilla configuration sounds best to you.

Fillings are what set Unico apart, announcing their heritage with options like Lima with shrimp, a crunchy mango-jicama-cabbage slaw, chile oil and two types of salsa, and Incheon, with Korean-style short ribs, kimchi, gochujang and salsa verde. If you thought the Korean taco trend was over, we've apparently only just begun.

Diners choose the format (taco, enchilada, wrap or bowl), a filling, and any additions like roasted corn or guacamole, which are extra, obviously.

Early feedback skews positive, and to further get the word out, Saran will be serving $7 tacos at Tapestry's bar, including the above two plus one inspired by India, one Rabbit Mole Taco, and a third that's "Mexico via Vatican" with Adobo pork.

31-31 Thomson Avenue, Long Island City, 718-433-3888; unico.nyc