The waits at Five Leaves in Greenpoint remain interminable, so instead, head over to Little King, where the former Five Leaves executive sous chef is now turning out upgraded bar food over in East Williamsburg. The bar—and owners Sam Esterman, John Moskowitz and Christina Salway are clear that, first and foremost, it's about getting "rowdy" and having fun—opened last night on Metropolitan Avenue just off the Graham Avenue L stop. And though it looks fancier than the average watering hole, you order everything at the bar and they'll sell you a can of Victoria Lager for $4.

There aren't many (or any?) spots offering a side of roasted bone marrow ($6) to accompany a Brioche Grilled Cheese ($10) with cheddar, pickled heirloom tomato, and sprouts, nor do many bars offering Scallop Crudo ($13) with charred lemon ponzu, pickled chilies and sesame. Philip Vernier's menu aims to encapsulate "high-end bar food inspired by our American and Southeast Asian favorites" along with "what is coming out of Paris." Have the French adopted Le Burger? At least here they do.

Cocktails run a reasonable-for-these-times $12 and most of the booze, even top shelf, even less than that.

749 Metropolitan Avenue; Facebook

Little King Food Menu by Nell Casey on Scribd

Little King Wine and Beer Menu by Nell Casey on Scribd

Little King Cocktails and Liquor by Nell Casey on Scribd