Our latest installment of Quick Bites brings us to Clinton Street for some damn good Mediterranean food.

THE VIBE
Stroll by Zyara NY, located on the most restaurant-y stretch of Clinton Street, and there are few outward indications that you are in the presence of greatness. It's casual and cramped in the way of tiny, counter-service/take-out spots everywhere, with seating for about ten people total, if everyone agrees to squeeze into their seats. Your options in this regard are a couple of simple wooden communal tables, and three stools that will have you staring at the wall and, probably feeling in the way of anyone waiting on line to order.

A big menu, complete with photographs, hangs above the ordering counter, which doubles as a refrigerator case for beverages. Next to the register is a some excellent sweet Arabic tea, which you can pour for yourself into one of the nicely-oversized IKEA mugs stacked nearby. The hot coffee is also self-serve.

There is a bit of decor at Zyara, with one wall repeating the word "visit" in about 20 different languages, and some art on the faux stone expanse opposite. A flat screen TV plays up in the corner, but thankfully the sound is off and it's bolted high enough near ceiling that it's easy to ignore. The owner is Khaleel Salman, from Jordan, and the entire staff is chatty and welcoming, eager to answer questions or offer suggestions. Friends and family seem to spend a lot of time here as well, adding to the convivial air.

THE BITES
The menu at Zyara features all the Mediterranean fast-casual hits, with a bunch of deep cuts, remixes, and covers thrown in. And best of all, the food, across the board, is phenomenal. The Vegan Arabic Sandwich, for example, rightly lauded elsewhere, is enormously rich and satisfying, a pita packed with vegetables (prepared diced and raw, charred shawarma style, and pickled), crisp-fried balls of falafel, and three layers of different sauces. There's a ton of flavor here, and considerable kick.

The Lamb Gyro is just as delicious, with loads of tender, thinly-sliced meat with the proper amount of funk. This comes with a side of excellent, well-seasoned french fries, a basket of which should be ordered no matter what else you get. Other sides that are well worth your attention include dense and tangy Grape Leaves, and the Mama Ghanouj, Salman's salute to his mother back in Amman and made with deep-fried cauliflower and tahini.

For a complete meal all on one plate, the Lamb Kebab platter is the way to go. The five grilled meatballs here are spectacularly juicy, and there's also a generous helping of chicken shawarma. The basmati rice is nice and chewy, and the olives, pickles, and a big scoop of Jerusalem salad complement the meat with aplomb. It's a ton of food, and all for $13.99, the highest price you'll find on the menu.

THE VERDICT
Every dish I've eaten at Zyara has been among the best versions of that thing I've ever had. Locals obviously should be coming here all the time—and clearly they do; each time I went someone who lived nearby told me how obsessed they were with the place—but it's also worth a special trip when the craving hits.

Zyara is located at 57 Clinton Street, between Rivington and Stanton Streets, and is open daily from 11 a.m. to midnight (646-559-4250; newyorkmediterraneanfood.com)