Brooklyn has its share of off-beat eateries and now there's another to add to the mix. Last night King Noodle opened its doors in Bushwick, bringing an inspired menu of Pop-Asian creations in a space designed like an under-the-sea LSD hallucination. Local artists Andrew Steiner and Damon Anderson of Secret Handshake painted a coral reef-themed mural onto the walls, which seems to swim under the neon lights and disco ball. Mirrored paneling heightens the intensity of the space, so even if you didn't smoke up before stopping by, expect your head to be spinning while you eat your dinner.
It's not just the decor that's tripping. Executive Chef Nick Subic, who's been behind the line at Roberta's and helped open The Pines, reimagines Asian cuisine, fusing classic flavors with American dishes and vice versa. Spicy Wings ($8) come slathered in Three Skulls Sauce, a potent riff on Korean Gochujan sauce with dried Thai chilies, Chengdu chilies, dried shallots, lime zest, garlic and kimchee brine. A hot, delicious mess of Mapo Chili Cheese Fries sees crispy shoestrings covered with spicy chili, chunks of tofu and doused in melty American cheese. Then there are the noodle dishes, like the Dduk Boki ($14), rice cakes with krab, mozzarella and spicy sauce and the aforementioned Kimchee Carbonara ($14), a spicy, creamy delight made even better with the addition of crunchy Nacho Cheese Dorito chips for an extra buck.
Keith Kenji Cochran—partner at next door hotspot The Narrows—takes care of the booze, pouring out pitchers of Budweiser, Brooklyn Brewery selections and tallboys of Sapporo. There's sake too, available by the carafe in hot and cold applications. But the real draw are the tiki cocktails, with updates to the Mai Tai and Zombie plus an enormous flaming Scorpion Bowl.
1045 Flushing Avenue, Bushwick // 718-456-6543 // Open weekdays 6 p.m. to 12 a.m., weekends 6 p.m. to 2 a.m.