If you were to combine the best all-star cheese dishes and throw them under one roof you'd get Pair Wine & Cheese, a Cobble Hill restaurant and fromagerie dedicated to all the tastiest ways to get cheese into your body. You've got your grilled cheeses, your fondues, your cheese plates and—be still my heart—your raclettes, the Rolls Royce of melted cheese. Owner Chung Park comes with a series cheese pedigree to boot, having been the maitre fromager at Artisanal, a manager at Murray's and the former owner of Cheese and Wine in Hoboken.

The Grilled Cheese ($11) comes filled with whatever the chef feels like on the day, though customers can supplement with some salty prosciutto ($5) if they wish. The Raclette ($12) comes served with the traditional potatoes and pickled vegetables, which you'll be grateful for when the dairy coma sets in. Then there are toasts, including a Burrata number ($9) accented by herbs and nectarines and a creamy goat Chevre ($9) topped with summery strawberries, radish, basil and mint.

It's not all about the gut busting here, as the restaurant also offers salads of Roasted Carrots ($12) tossed with hummos, English peas, sesame and labneh and the Robiola Tortellini ($14) exercises some restraint with asparagus and, okay, truffle oil. Non cheese-laden dishes include Fois Gras Torchon ($14) on banana bread with figs and porte gelee and Deviled Eggs ($6) with radish and pickle relish.

Wine is half the concept here, and the eatery boasts an impressive selection of offerings by the glass so you can try your hand at a Domaine Ricard rose ($9) or dabble in a sweet Quinta do Infantado ($12) from Portugal. If you need a strong hand to guide you, opt for a PAIR Flight. For $25 you'll get three cheeses and three wines to fully explore the interplay of flavors as the two mingle in your mouth, while sating your dairy and drinks craving.

140 Atlantic Avenue, 718-596-6594; website

Pair Menu 20120609