Hyped-up chefs swooping in from other cities can usually safely be ignored, but if a top-notch burger has ever buckled your knees with pleasure, I urge you to head over to the one-time Isa space in Williamsburg tonight to try Chris Kronner's remarkable creation.
Last night Kronner, whose Oakland restaurant KronnerBurger is apparently one of the hottest spots in the Bay Area, set up shop by the side-yard grill at Greenpoint's Achilles Heel, where he unpacked enough of his proprietary dry-aged, grass-fed beef blend to flip 120 burgers, and I am extremely grateful that I got to eat one of them.
If Kronner ever decides to transplant his talents here in the big town, people are going to go nuts. I am going to go nuts. This was easily one of the best burgers I've ever had, a perfectly seasoned, intensely meaty patty—"served rare no exceptions"—topped with a wonderfully greasy cheddar mayo, pickles for an acid bite, barely-caramelized onions, crisp iceberg and a thick slice of tomato, all precisely balanced on a precisely-baked bun.
The man himself (Scott Lynch/Gothamist)
It costs $20 (which is $7 more, it seems, than what he charges on the other coast), but it's as good or better than any of other high-end burgers I've had here in New York. I also got the optional $5 salted Marrow Bone on the side, to schmear on top of my meat, and that was fun and delicious but not strictly necessary.
Kronner will be grilling again tonight at the former Isa space (348 Wythe Avenue) from 7 p.m. to midnight, sharing the pop-up spotlight with the Joint Venture crew, who'll be cooking up a bunch of seafood dishes. But really, this is all about the KronnerBurger. Don't miss it.