Answering the desperate need for more sleek-sexy-loungey restaurants in the Meatpacking District, the Gansevoort has opened a big new bi-level restaurant called "Toy." What was once Tanuki Tavern and Carte Blanche is now a dark Asian fusion eatery pumping out '80s pop and a sprawling menu of "modern Chinese" cuisine, plus a raw bar and sushi. Jeffrey Beers' design aesthetic hearkens back to the neon '80s—some of the cocktails come with colored monkeys curly straws, you guys, the servers have "bursts of neon" in their belts, bow ties, and suspenders, and a mirrored fractal ceiling enhances the club's restaurant's theatrical lighting design.

Chef Doron Wong's menu (below) is wide-ranging, and in keeping with the restaurant's name, includes "fun" twists, such as the Dim Sum order of Shrimp ‘Toast’ Cigars with golden plum sauce ($14) and Pork Potstickers with ginger, black vinegar and shaved apple ($12). The sushi menu features a number of "riceless" options with names like "Power," and "Wealth"—the five piece riceless Beauty roll is made with tuna, salmon, hamachi, king crab and masago, with a cucumber wrap.

Of course, this wouldn't be the Meatpacking District without at least one insanely priced menu option for the expense account set. Close the deal with your client/mistress/satan by ordering the $400 Toy Boat: It consists of Shooters uni, quail egg and apple yuzu, Sushi tuna, tuna toro, yellowtail and salmon, Sashimi toro, truffled lobster, West coast sea urchin, abalone and spot prawns, Tartare Kobe beef and foie gras. All that and a side of sesame crisps!

18 9th Avenue at 13th Street in the Gansevoort Meatpacking // (212) 660-6766

TOY Dinner Summer 2012