The team behind Brooklyneer, that friendly Brooklyn-themed barstaurant over by Film Forum, have drifted a few blocks east on Houston Street to open another warmly-appointed watering hole. Called The Folly, the new venture has completely overhauled the cavernous yet blah subterranean space formerly occupied by Buskers. Fans of The Folly's predecessor will hardly recognize it, and that's probably a good thing.

You'll pick up on a bit of a nautical theme from the ropes lashed to some of the booths, and the old wooden ship parts above the bar, and the caged dock lights and antique steamer trunks, but the aesthetic is not so heavy-handed that you feel like you should be dipping your beard in grog and talking like a pirate. The ceiling is low in the front (ok, bow) of the bar, lending it the cozy feel of a ship's hold, but towards the stern the Folly opens up, with a staircase ascending to a high-ceilinged, comfortably furnished lounge.

The "bill of fare," created by chef Justin Farmer (Hill and Dale) skews toward seafood, with a juicy fish sandwich, cherry stone clam & chorizo fritters, salt cod tater tots, a kombucha oyster shooter, and a seaweed salad; there's also an Angus burger and a lobster mac & cheese. The draft beer list includes an always-appreciated Old Speckled Hen, as well as a mysterious Rogue Dead Guy Ale, and the craft cocktail menu boasts a well-balanced concoction called The Horn Blower, made with excellent Death's Door gin, honey dew, prosecco, and lemon bitters.

92 West Houston Street, between Thompson and LaGuardia