The Times visited Jonathan Benno, the outgoing chef of the four-star restaurant Per Se, and also managed to get a behind the scenes peek at the multimillion dollar kitchen, described in part as "an inhumanly immaculate expanse of burner rings and countertops." But that's not all: there's also a video screen with a real-time uplink to Per Se’s sister restaurant, the French Laundry, all the way on the West Coast! "When it comes to fine dining in New York, the fiscal situation is often irrelevant," writes Alan Feuer. "Elites will always and forever be elites." Of course this is true, but Feuer calling a restaurant kitchen "something akin to a gold vault or the Queen of England’s bedroom" takes things a little too far. Dude, it's a kitchen. Filled with really expensive equipment. It probably smells a little bit better in there than a royal bedroom, too. And for certain, Per Se costs a lot of money—the last (and only) time Gothamist visited the place, the post-dinner report was followed by a Piranha-style frenzy of comments that somehow even managed to namecheck the economist Thorstein Bunde Veblen.