After struggling to keep his over-the-top Russian restaurant Brasserie Pushkin afloat, restauranteur Andrey Dellos decided to reinvent the space as Betony, bringing aboard two Eleven Madison Park veterans to realize the transformation. Eamon Rockey—who recently helmed Tribeca's Atera and Williamsburg's Aska—and Bryce Shuman were tasked with creating a modern American restaurant that retained the upscale setting befitting its history but with a more relaxed and welcoming vibe.

Mercifully, the cherubs and gaudy chandeliers have been removed and replaced with bits of greenery and framed photographs by James Beard Award-nominated photographer Nathan Rawlinson. The huge 35-seat bar is a new addition, but the space retained many of the nuts and bolts from its opulent Brasserie Pushkin days. Awash in plenty of warm light from glass wall sconces and dangling bulbs, the space certainly seems more welcoming. The 85-seat dining room features plush velvet chairs and banquettes enclosed in cozy, carved wood walls and ceilings with plenty of exposed brick.

The a la carte menu from Chef Shuman includes playful updates on low-brow dishes like Potato Chips with creme fraiche and chive ($7), a "Tuna Melt" with fontina on brioche ($12) and Fried Pickled Ramps with an Aleoppo pepper yogurt dipping sauce ($11). Strands of papardelle pasta and ribbons of asparagus ($24) swim in a rich foam with delicate shavings of summer truffle; Grilled Shortribs ($29) are presented both on and off the bone, with a side of charred romaine and crispy, fried sweetbreads. Beverages include a vast collection of 400 wines; 20 beers from local (Captain Lawrence) to far flung (Brouwerji Rodenbach); and 12 cocktails like the aptly-named Death in the Afternoon ($13) with campagne and absinthe.

41 West 57th Street, 212-465-2400. Open for dinner and cocktails Monday through Saturday.

Betony Dinner Menu

Betony Cocktail Menu

Betony Beer Menu

Betony Dessert Menu