Tapestery, as its name implies, weaves together colorful strands of global foods to create one harmonious dish, or dishes, as the case may be. It's chef Suvir Saran at the loom, who uses the globalization of food as a lens through which to view the cuisines of his Indian heritage. Saran refuses to be limited by preconceptions about what is or is not Indian food, but just don't call it fusion.

Rich chicken wings glazed in tangy tamarind come with a basil-mint yogurt sauce, while a classic French Salmon en Papilotte comes bathed in tomato chutney with an Indian kachumbar salad of tomatoes, onions and cucumbers. Saran achieves great success when he's riffing on classic comfort foods, like the Masala Fried Chicken ($26), with a thick batter of crunch. Think a three piece breast, leg and thigh meal at Popeye's, with peanut slaw and aloo bharta instead of mayonnaise-y cabbage and mashed potatoes.

The kitchen makes excellent use of cauliflower, dousing it in a sweet, sour and spicy Hakka sauce with flavors native to Taiwan but popular in India. Or in a more Italian-inspired preparation of wide ribbons of pappardelle noodles dotted with chile and sage with crunchy breadcrumbs and bits of fried garlic for texture. Less successful is a Rabbit Terrine, which lacked the expected lusciousness and yearned for a heavier hand with the salt shaker at a recent press preview.

But salt shows up to great effect in the cocktails ($14), which is perfect for someone like myself who avoids sweets and dessert-type things. A vodka, cucumber, dill and peppercorn offering (Kashmir Valley) drank like a Bloody Mary Lite, while another with tequila, saffron, turmeric, black pepper, lime and cayenne (Sela) might make you reach for the spice drawer next time you're whipping up adult beverages at home.

60 Greenwich Avenue, (212) 373-8900; website