Stare deep into the flames from the chef's counter at new Fort Greene restaurant Metta and watch as hunks of flame-roasted lamb, chicken and beets emerge from the fiery depths. Chef Norberto Piattoni's (Restaurante Garzón in Uruguay and Bar Tartine in SF) new restaurant harnesses the open flame—and its byproducts like smoke and smoldering embers—to do the bulk of the cooking. This is for all of us who share a fondness for slightly burnt popcorn.

A proprietary kitchen setup captures several types of flame and adjacent cooking methods, coupled with the chef's non-flame cooking methods like pickling and dehydration. The resulting dishes include Charred Beets with creme fraiche and rye berries, Pork Steak with charred cabbage and crabapple sauce, and Slow Roasted Lamb with chili, pickled vegetables and lettuce.

Henry Rich—co-owner of Metta in addition to June Wine Bar and Rucola—takes care of the drinks like orange and chilled red wines and lots of unique non-alcoholic options including Pear Kefir Ashwaganda Maple Soda.

197 Adelphi Street, 718-233-9134;

Metta Food Menu by Nell Casey on Scribd