Pizziaolo Giulio Adriani just can't stop coming up with inventive new ways to dish out pizza, from frying the dough to dessert creations to inviting guests to (literally) make their own pies. Adriani debuted his latest innovation earlier this week: Slice of Naples, a quick-service nook outside the restaurant proper serving up square slices of Neopolitan pies. Neopolitan pizza has achieved cult status at restaurants like Motorino and Roberta's, but this is a model you won't see anywhere else around town. Instead of restricting the pies to fancy, sit-down meals, Slice of Naples offers an on-the-go application for times when you're not prepared to devour an entire pie—though you're welcome to do that, too.
We got a sneak peek at the tiny new takeout joint when Adriani opened the doors and let whoever wandered in eat pizza on the house. Having sampled his offerings at Forcella, we know this genial Italian knows his way around a crust, and that's still true here. They're lighter and a bit crispier than other versions around town and even after sitting out it still had a nice chewy interior and crunchy rim. That's thanks in part to the electric oven used on these particular pies (the ones at Forcella take a turn in a wood-fired oven), which cooks the pizza slower, allowing for the additional water to evaporate.
When asked which slice to try first, Adriani immediately pointed to the Ripiena, which upon first glance doesn't look like a pizza so much as giant sandwich. The dough gets baked without adornment and then gets immediately sliced lengthwise when it leaves the oven, creating two large pieces that resemble slices of bread. It's then stuffed with arugula, prosciutto and stracchino cheese, a rindless cow's milk cheese that Adriani adds liquid to, making a kind of creamy, cheesy sauce. A slice of this delicious creation is worth a visit alone; go immediately.
The special of the day on our visit was a white pie with artichokes, mozzarella and ham; salty, briny and just a little bit sweet, it was filling and hearty in all the ways pizza should be. Less successful was the Spicy Salami, which sees a traditional Margarita Pizza topped with spicy, imported meat. While the sausage had a nice bite, the sauce was heavy on the acid and didn't have the depth of flavor we look for in a red sauce.
Slices range in price from $3.50 to $6 and you can also purchase an entire pie—they are big—for $30 to $45. They're also serving up Italian beers like Moretti and Peroni to accompany the pizza. And just in case the craving for artisan pizza calls you after a night on the town, Slice of Naples operates daily until 4 a.m.
334B Bowery; asliceofnaples.com
