delbourgogne.jpgGothamist was meandering through Fairway recently and got stuck in the cheese section. Not that we mind getting stuck in Fairway's cheese section. Fairway's cheese guru, Steve Jenkins, has built a career of bringing world-class cheeses to the masses. Key to his approach: user-friendly descriptions of his favorite cheeses. Consider this label on a wedge of Delice de Bourgogne we picked up:

Fabolous (sic) triple-creme from France. This is what St. Andre tasted like ten years ago, before mass-production blandified it out of all recognition. If you like St. Andre, you'll love this.

Insanely Rich and Decadent.

Steve didn't disappoint. The Delice de Bourgogne did remind us of our first taste of Saint Andre, ten years ago, in French Canada. Runny, slightly funky, and rich with its roughly 75% milk fat, this is a cheese we could get used to.

-- Delice de Bourgogne, $8.99/lb. at Fairway, Broadway at 74th Street. Pair with Burgundy wines: white when served as an hors d'oeuvre, red when served after the meal.

-- Get Steve Jenkins's Cheese Primer on Amazon.