On Monday, chefs Andy Yang and Pichet Ong opened Sachi Asian Bistro on a stretch of 2nd Avenue dominated by bodegas and bagel shops in the mostly unloved neighborhood of Murray Hill. The duo—who've launched a successful Thai truck/restaurant empire and cooked under Jean Georges, respectively—bring their equally varied talents to the new eatery, which blends together a variety of Asian cuisines and techniques under one roof. Together with charming general manager David Chan, the team puts forth a valiant effort to capture and embrace a multi-ethnic celebration of flavors in a dramatic, date-worthy setting.
There are a few wonderful dishes to be found on the expansive menu, whether you're leaning Japanese (ramen, sushi), Chinese (dim sum) or more a fusion dish invoking multiple areas. At a recent press preview, Scallion Pancakes are less greasy than takeout versions, with a satisfying crunch and oniony flavor. Charsui Duck Buns in a BBQ marmalade are sweet, tender and light, the pastry ever-so-slightly sticking to your lips. Both fall under the restaurant's Dim Sum menu, meaning a few small parcels can make for one eclectic appetizer.
The Dan Dan noodles, served here mazemen ramen-style with duck in a sesame broth, are interesting enough to warrant an order, though the dish doesn't quite capture the fiery flavors of traditional Dan Dan, nor the decadent fattiness of other ramens popular these days. The sushi is fresh, though, and that counts for a lot; special rolls like the T.N.T with blue crab, crunchy spicy tuna and a slick of mango chutney could easily make up an entire meal.
But to do so would mean to miss out on the restaurant's more successful meat and rice dishes, particularly the Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice, composed of pork belly, sausage and Chinese sauce. Ong and the team steam-bake the pork belly, reserving the fatty bits for this rice dish that melt into the nutty, chewy black rice. Other highlights include the equally meaty Lion Head Meatballs, which are tender and moist in their savory broth, and the Braised Short Rib Massaman Curry, a version of the Thai classic swimming in a delicious gravy with hunks of toasted brioche for sopping it all up.
Ong, whose background is actually rooted in pastry, gets to do some showing off here, and it's well worth saving room for his delicious desserts. Of particular note (from a noted dessert hater): Ginger Creme Brulee and the Chocolate Ice Box Cake. Seriously, who even makes ice box cakes anymore? Treasure this man. Cocktails are also a treat, especially the Thai Side Car made with tea-infused cognac, Cointreau, fresh lemon and a raw sugar rim. If you like sour, you're in luck, as many of the cocktails favor that taste over any other.
713 2nd Avenue between 38th and 39th Streets; website
