Until 9 p.m. on Monday it was business as usual at Jean Georges, the four star restaurant on Central Park West. Sam Sifton reports that "diners were tucking into yellowfin tuna ribbons or gently smoked squab, talking cheerfully as staff members padded silently through the elegant, carpeted room... Then a cockroach appeared on the ironed white cloth of a table of five diners. A woman at the table screamed and the whole restaurant went quiet." The roach escaped, but the woman was plied with free champagne, and the table was given another course for free, plus complimentary dessert. And that's why we always carry a cockroach in a small vial when dining at New York's finest restaurants.
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