Our latest installment of Quick Bites brings us to the border of Crown Heights and Bed-Stuy for some Mexican fare with a Caribbean flare.
THE VIBE
El Jeffe, a good-looking taco stand with strong Caribbean influences, opened late this summer on an unremarkable stretch of Fulton Street, near the border between Crown Heights and Bed-Stuy. The counter-service restaurant is owned and operated by neighborhood resident Onishka Camarena, and the design of the place is clean and contemporary, with lots of raw wood, stainless steel, and those colored metal stools you see everywhere.
You can sit facing the open kitchen or along the opposite wall, but the best seat in the house is one of the four or five spots by the front window, looking out over the bustling thoroughfare.
There's a nook in the back that could easily fit a couple of small tables, but right now the area is more of a "friends-and-family" hangout, with locals of many ages lounging and laughing in folding chairs, the lively chatter adding an additional layer of communal good-feeling to the overall atmosphere.
(Scott Lynch/Gothamist)
THE BITES
There are four primary ways to enjoy your Mexican-Caribbean feast at El Jeffe, and all of them are good. The tacos, for example, start with a pair of soft, housemade flour tortillas, which are stuffed with a nice sense of balance among the ingredients. I've tried the Grilled Shrimp, the Fried Chicken, and the Catfish, each of which were freshly prepared and packed plenty of punch. The young man taking your order will reel off a list of suggested toppings depending on your base—crema, shredded lettuce, jalapeños, cotija cheese, pico de gallo, pickled onions, and so on—but you can always just leave those tough calls to the kitchen staff.
The Quesadilla is a more simple affair, but doesn't disappoint on the gobs-of-salty-melted-cheese front. I had mine with the Al Pastor filling, which is traditional with its spit roasted pig and pineapple juices taste, but also unusual because it's covered in seriously spicy jerk seasonings. It was delicious, full of fat and fire, crackling skin and chewy bits.
The best dish—and the best value—on the menu may be the Rice Bowl, which I had with that same Al Pastor/Jerk Pork. The huge pile of pig sitting atop sticky rice comes with a significant amount of black beans, and generous portions of good guacamole and brilliantly fresh and lively pico on the side. The Boss Nachos are also a good bet if you're really hungry, a mountain of thick and crisp housemade chips topped with the guac and pico, ribbons of thick Jeffe Cheese and, in my case, chunks of well-seasoned, well-grilled steak.
The one side dish of note is the juicy Mazorca, which is basically elote and is sweet, salty, and spicy in about equal measure.
THE VERDICT
El Jeffe is a standout new addition to this part of Fulton Street, serving big-flavored (and filling) food made with a lot of love. Definitely add it to your rotation if you live in the area, or are often passing through.
El Jeffe is located at 1483 Fulton Street, between Throop and Tompkins, and is open from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. from Monday to Thursday, and until 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. Beer and boozy frozen drinks available. Closed Sunday. (347-365-8919)
