To get to the 20th floor of 230 Fifth Avenue you need to walk past security, through turnstiles ready for keycards, past all the stores on the ground floor to a nearly private elevator and the cheetah in the foyer will let you know you’ve made it. And by “made it” we mean “are ready to spend $12 for a well cocktail” or $9 for a beer in a very, very narrow glass. The vitriol you are feeling may be because you’re still in the building — our gimlet didn’t get any cheaper up one flight to the roof but it did taste better with the best view of the area we’ve seen.

The management of 230 Fifth asked that no photos be taken of the interiors so we can only say and not show the total Miami Vice take on grandeur. It includes, but is not limited to, chaises by Karl Lagerfeld, ridiculous metal on the wall and mirrors, that aforementioned jungle animal and one ugly carpet. And up on the deck are nearly private tables, all with resort umbrellas and menus — fingerfood (by 5 Ninth's Zak Pelaccio) includes lamb tea sandwiches, spring rolls and sliders, all entrée priced. What management did allow, though, were shots of the views, and they are worth it (even if next time we’d stick to Diet Cokes).

Photos courtesy of Brian Van.

230 Fifth Ave., 20th fl , between 26th and 27th Streets, 212-725-4300.