Wine has many friends in this world but there are few who could claim to be disciples of the drink. One of the few is Michael Coll, who's opened a hybrid wine shop and eatery dedicated to vino in a former Garment District showroom. Coll's Wine Disciples Shop and Enoteca are havens for oenophiles, and while the Shop has a bit more aging before it pops the cork, the Enoteca—whose kitchen is helmed by former Vinegar Hill House chef Brian Leth—is ready to be poured, along with the 20 wines available by the glass.
Dishes are meant to complement and elevate each vintage, with simple plates of antipasti (olives, focaccia), crostini (pork liver and cherries, smoked ricotta and roasted mushrooms) and plates of formaggi and cured meats the most direct pairings. Leth adds fire in one form or another for the selections of Friggitori—think fried things like Calamari ($12) and Polenta ($12)—and a small selection of pizzas from a simple Margherita ($14) to a fiery entry topped with hot coppa, crimini mushrooms and chili oil ($18).
More complex pastas and mains may require service from a sommelier about which of the 200 bottles to pair with Pea Ravioli ($16/26) or assertive Spaghetti with lobster, tomato and black olive ($18/28). It seems to our uncultured palate that something light and bubbly might go well with the Whole Roasted Golden Trout ($26) accompanied by artichokes and perhaps a pinot grigio with the Turkey Milanese ($24) accented with prosciutto jus. But we haven't been converted yet—so best ask the devout.
129 West 29th Street, (212) 239-4199; website