It's August 1st (!). Summer is no longer a dewy promise but a fleeting reality. You've shucked and lobster-rolled your way through enough seasonal cuisine that to carry on with the same tired standbys implies denial. Enter Do or Dine's Pescabrat, a tasty, aquatic antidote to the anodyne.

The Pescabrat is a "bratwurst" of salmon and scallops resting on a Martin's potato roll, with a squiggle of coarse-grained mustard. Simple. The key here is texture—the brat maintains an authentic snap to the bite (a feature chef Justin Warner attributed to the scallops) and flavorful, fleshy interior. It's not a mealy, grilled cake, but a legitimate sausage, and it is very, very good.

The Pescabrat is $14 and served with a light mentaiko potato salad (oceany!) and mussels with black beans. You can make your own if you follow Warner's recipe, but that means you'll miss bartender Luke Jackson's "picklebacks" and that would be a shame.

For the diner who craves Flesh, Warner offers The Darwin Burger: an unholy amalgamation of beef, pork, duck, shrimp, anchovy, oyster, goat, and chicken.

This smacks of playground brinksmanship ("My Dad's burgers have more animals in them and can beat up your Dad's burgers") but for a novelty, it is pretty tasty. Rich and dense, to say it tastes kind of like a souped-up, psychedelic venison would dishonor the lives of so many of the living beings that went into it. And yet...

The Darwin Burger is served on a Martin potato bun with tangy special sauce, yuzu fries, and mixed greens. It is also $14, and available along with the Pescabrat during Do or Dine's first foray into lunch, which for now is on Saturdays from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.

And dammit it's lunch, not brunch.