Delores Tronco-DePierro was a big deal in Denver—her most famous restaurant, Work & Class, earned national acclaim and multiple James Beard awards. Then she moved here in 2016 to pursue a lifelong dream of opening a place in New York City. Last week, after a lot of hard work and an equal amount of love, that dream became a reality with the stylish, Southwest-seasoned spot The Banty Rooster in the West Village.

The Banty, as Tronco-DePierro likes to call it, can seat about 75 guests in all, at an L-shaped banquette up front, at stools at the bar in the middle, and in two dining areas in the back, one of which features a skylight. It's really quite elegant, with muted colors, wood floors, abundant plant life, and brick walls painted white. Tronco-Depierro chose all the art, about a dozen black-and-white photographs of classic NYC grit (street style, old-school hip hop, graffiti, etc.), and a lovely series of skyline drawings above the hostess desk. Without trying too hard, it fits right in here on lower Greenwich Avenue.

Tronco-DePierro is the Banty's sole owner (and nicknamesake, by the way; it's an old handle, given to her for her passion and tenacity), but her husband John DePierro, formerly of Miss Ada and Metta, runs the kitchen, and he is serving an approachable, appealing menu that leans toward flavors of the American Southwest but also incorporates, for example, some Puerto Rican touches as well Asian influences. Basically: anything that's good and fun is fair game here. Which is also true of DePierro's playlist, which he takes almost as seriously, apparently, as he does the food.

We got to eat nine of DePierro's dishes at a press dinner on opening night, and I really enjoyed most everything we tried. The entrees—or, per the menu, the "Deeper Cuts"—were the stars of the meal, especially the Pan Roasted Pork Collar, a beautiful piece of rich, fatty pig, balanced by the sweet heat of hatch chilies and tang of pickled onions. This was exceptional. The Snowdance Farm Half Chicken was also delicious, with chewy, nicely seasoned skin sliding off the juicy meat below. The bird arrives lying atop a mound of "Mom's Rice," with a puddle of brown sauce for dipping. Short Rib, Hake, and Cabbage dishes round out your options here.

Definitely get the Fried Chicken Skin as your snack, the crackling bird bites irresistible when dunked in the buttermilk dressing-hot sauce mixture. The Roasted Chili Focaccia was declared the best thing on the table by my companion, though I thought the Grilled Octopus, perfectly cooked, with a lovely ring of fat, was the clear winner of this part ("From the Jump") of the feast. The citrusy Market Greens Salad did its palate-brightening job, and the Potato Fritters probably go well with booze. There's also Squid, Charred Eggplant, Chicken Meatballs, and Delicata Squash on offer. Desserts include an Apple Pie and a plate of Biscochitos, "New Mexico's state cookie."

Tronco-DePierro and her crew are excellent hosts, and The Banty Rooster is one of those restaurants where you instantly feel welcome and relaxed, like you can make yourself at home. Definitely a solid addition to the neighborhood. Put it on your short list for the next time someone says "where can we go that's casual and fun with good, not-boring food in the West Village?"

Scott Lynch / Gothamist

The Banty Rooster is located at 24 Greenwich Avenue, just north of West 10th Street, and is open Sunday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., and from 5 until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday (thebantynyc.com)