In the past weeks Sam Sifton's positive reviews have killed Bushwick for the rest of us and in theory made trips to a "dumpling heaven" in Manhattan's Chinatown a bit more hellish. So at least this week he revisits a restaurant where we already expected both good food and large celebrity chef-worshiping crowds: Tom Colicchio's flagship Craft, which for the second time in its ten year history has earned three stars from the Gray Lady. "The philosophy of Craft is craft," says Sifton and "Craft at 10 is a restaurant in full."
The menu is "somewhat less aggressively do-it-yourself than it was a decade ago, when diners were forced to build their own dinners from lists of proteins, sauces and styles of preparation" and that is "to the good." The simple dishes are delicious, the wine list is solid, and the desserts are very much not a disappointment (the "s’mores, with chocolate-peanut butter mousse, is exceptional"). If you wanted proof that a celebrity chef can keep their flagship in tip top shape while simultaneously expanding around the world and becoming a mass media star, well, look no further.
Meanwhile, in other restaurant reviews, TONY's Jay Cheshes doesn't dig dinner at Do or Dine in Bed-Stuy but the Voice's Lauren Shockey does. And in other positive news out of the Voice, Rob Sietsema is surprised to find that "much of the food is good" at Neely's Barbecue Parlor. Elsewhere the New Yorker joins the throngs of The Dutch-lovers and Bloomberg's Ryan Sutton is not amused by the food at the U.S. Open ("As a rule, you go to the U.S. Open for high-end tennis, not high-end dining. That presents a problem at Aces restaurant in Arthur Ashe stadium, where it’s near impossible to see the match.").