After 12 years in business on Williamsburg's Southside, the neighborhood Japanese restaurant Supercore abruptly closed in March. Some of us took the news pretty hard, particularly me, because I used to sit at the bar there and inhale a smoked salmon sandwich with wasabi mayo about once a week. The food they turned out in the little open kitchen was fresh and nothing too complicated (addictive shrimp shumai), and the backyard was a verdant oasis. It was a goddamn crime against humanity when it closed, but now, lo and behold, it's back. Sort of.

Edward Alontaga, a former manager at Supercore, has joined some other former employees and investors to open Catswall in the same location. It's not trying to be anything trendy, it's just a subdued, warmly lit Japanese restaurant serving a menu with numerous similarities to Supercore. There's no more smoked salmon sandwich, but there is a smoked salmon salad. And kimchi is still on the menu, as are the various rich and hearty curries which Supercore prepared so well. The tofu sandwich, a new addition, is healthy comfort food at its finest.

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(Courtesy Catswall)

Catswall is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and brunch, and you can peruse the dinner menu below. The lush backyard is still a pocket of tranquility, and at this point they don't yet have a liquor license. If you're looking for a leisurely, delicious meal without the blazing hype of Bedford Avenue, this is your place.

305 Bedford Avenue, Williamsburg // (718) 388-5333

Catswall