After 12 years in business on Williamsburg's Southside, the neighborhood Japanese restaurant Supercore abruptly closed in March. Some of us took the news pretty hard, particularly me, because I used to sit at the bar there and inhale a smoked salmon sandwich with wasabi mayo about once a week. The food they turned out in the little open kitchen was fresh and nothing too complicated (addictive shrimp shumai), and the backyard was a verdant oasis. It was a goddamn crime against humanity when it closed, but now, lo and behold, it's back. Sort of.

Edward Alontaga, a former manager at Supercore, has joined some other former employees and investors to open Catswall in the same location. It's not trying to be anything trendy, it's just a subdued, warmly lit Japanese restaurant serving a menu with numerous similarities to Supercore. There's no more smoked salmon sandwich, but there is a smoked salmon salad. And kimchi is still on the menu, as are the various rich and hearty curries which Supercore prepared so well. The tofu sandwich, a new addition, is healthy comfort food at its finest.

(Courtesy Catswall)

Catswall is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and brunch, and you can peruse the dinner menu below. The lush backyard is still a pocket of tranquility, and at this point they don't yet have a liquor license. If you're looking for a leisurely, delicious meal without the blazing hype of Bedford Avenue, this is your place.

305 Bedford Avenue, Williamsburg // (718) 388-5333