Our next installment of Quick Bites brings us to Broome Street where The Meatball Shop guy is serving up fantastic fish.

THE VIBE
Just in time for high summer, the beachiest new restaurant in town opened last week, all bright and breezy and shack-casual with a menu made up almost entirely of locally-sourced, sustainable seafood.

The place is called Seamore's, and it's the new project from Michael Chernow, who knows a thing or two about turning a simple concept—"let's only serve meatballs!"—into a success. Chernow puts a lot of what has made his (co-owned) string of Meatball Shops so popular into play here, from the choose-your-adventure menu to the unexpectedly excellent and efficient service.

But Seamore's is a slightly more serious undertaking than Chernow's other venture, with more demands on the kitchen due in part to a constant rotation of whatever's-freshest fish, but also because your final bill here, while still not overly expensive by NYC standards, will likely be double what you've spent for the man's meatball meals.

Seamore's is a pretty, comfortable space—Chernow helped design the interior—with lots of light wood, splashes of bold color, and those huge (open, when appropriate) windows all along both Mulberry and Broome. When it gets loud and busy inside, and it already has been both, the festivities tend to spill out into the street.

Basically it feels like exactly the sort of restaurant you're in the mood for after a day at the beach, even if if said beach day was entirely theoretical.

It feels like summer.

THE BITES
I ate here twice over the holiday weekend, and wolfed down nothing but winners. The main event at Seamore's is the Reel Deal, for which you choose one of the four "daily landings" (aka the catches of the day), then one of five sauces, then from among a list of sides, though right now the three you get—a grain, a green, a veggie—are the only three they have.

I went with the Boston Mackerel for my Reel Deal, and it was a lovely, oily beast, the two fillets perfectly grilled, laid over a bowl of quinoa, charred snap peas and asparagus, turnips and squash, and topped (at my discretion, which I exercised with abandon) by a crock of sticky, rich Miso and Brown Butter. It was all delicious, and healthy as hell (right?), but although the light-eaters of Nolita might call it a night, food-wise, with just this single pretty bowl of goodness, I definitely needed more.

The Poke-rhymes-with-ok was tuna on this night, the serving of raw, brightly marinated chunks tossed with avocado and nuts, and flanked by two crispy round crackers for a bit of heft. Heftier still was my meal the following evening, beginning with the Spicy Squid Tacos, which, frankly, weren't actually that spicy, but the tender cephalopod was nicely balanced with tart apples, salty cojita cheese, a tomato-y sauce and, in a nice touch, a handful of corn nuts.

Next up was the Blackened Fish sandwich, made with bluefish—you see how this place works, right? You toggle between the regular and the special menu to piece together a base preparation with whatever fish is fresh. It was terrific, the richly-flavored swimmer holding its own with the toppings of avocado, lettuce and tomato, and a lemony aioli. I'd highly recommend the side of sweet potato fries here, rather than the greens, which are also probably good, but c'mon, live a little and get some damn fries, they're excellent.

Dessert at Seamore's comes via Sam Mason and Oddfellows, a rotating series of soft-serve flavors beginning with Coconut Kaffir Lime sprinkled with granola. It doesn't look like much when it hits the table, but the flavors are big, and it makes for a satisfying end to your fish feast.

THE VERDICT
Great food, a beckoning corner location, healthy-seeming (and healthy-actually) dishes, and prices mostly in the low- to mid-teens? This place is going to get slammed, so either go early or expect to wait. But definitely go, whether you've been to the beach that day or not. Seamore's is the kind of fun, casually-summery restaurant that's tough to pull off here in the big city, but Chernow appears to have nailed it.

Seamore's is located at 390 Broome Street, on the corner of Mulberry, and is open daily from 5:00 p.m. to 12:00 midnight. (212-730-6005; seamores.com)