Even though it had been open less than a week Wildwood Barbeque, the latest addition to the burgeoning New York City barbeque scene, was mobbed with merry meatheads Wednesday night. Folks were queued up at the entranceway, as they waited to taste meats from Pitmaster Big Lou Elrose.

Big Lou had been deputy pitmaster of Hill Country and has cooked many a barbeque competition. He's clearly just at home smoking with the Texas post oak used at Hill Country as he is with the fruitwoods that are used at Wildwood. The meats were all on point, including the beef brisket, which was gobbled up too quickly for a photo. The menu makes a point of noting that it's "hand-rubbed by Big Lou." If you like your beef brisket juicy be sure to ask for the point or deckle cut.

Since there's really no such thing as New York City-style barbeque, Wildwood's 'cue hail pays tribute to various regional styles. As far as sides, there's nothing earth-shattering going on here. If only there had been room for dessert, the fluffer-nutter smores sound awesome.

Wildwood Barbeque, 225 Park Avenue South, (212) 533-2500