Ramen Setagaya is the latest outpost of a Tokyo-based ramen shop chain to open in NYC. If you're in the East Village, it's hard to miss; just look for the present line of hungry ramen lovers snaking out the door onto the sidewalk of 1st Avenue.

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Their signature bowl of shio ramen (they don't make any other types of broth) is topped with soft, fatty slices of simmered pork, chopped bamboo shoots, seaweed, shaved onion and half of a soft-boiled egg oozing with bright yellow-orange yolk. The thin, firm, slightly chewy noodles swim in a light, translucent yellow broth that contains just the right amount of salt so that the rest of the broth's flavors aren't overwhelmed. What are the other flavors? We're not sure of the exact formulation, but it could include pork, chicken, dried anchovy, clams, scallops, seaweed, ginger, and garlic. None of the flavors means to knock you over—they harmoniously meld together.

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Their side dishes include extra sliced pork, edamame, gyoza, teriyaki-don and oyako-don. You can also add extra ramen to your bowl, although we think the standard size is enough for one meal.

Ramen Setagaya is located at 141 First Avenue (between St. Mark's Place and 9th Street). (212) 529-2740