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The long, narrow, striated-wood counter at chef Will Goldfarb's serves 30, but at the brand new Room 4 Dessert, previously home to Bar Tonno and Bar Veloce, it's a sweets-only endeavor. Goldfarb, the former chef at Cru, known for spontaneous and experimental creations, brings us desserts in themes, like a curry-scented concoction named "Voyage to India," cotton candy and meringues ("Infance"), a vanilla coupe glacee with whiskey sabayon, and quartets of apples in various states (tatin, cider, tartare, and sorbet). Desserts are paired with wines, champagnes, and exotic teas which the newbie staff ever-so-excitedly places before you as though awaiting a reaction. Goldfarb is ever-present with an infectious dessert-making energy, riddled with both sugar and a smile.

Room 4 Dessert is located at 17 Cleveland Place, (b/w Spring and Kenmare). They are open 4-11 Monday - Thursday; 5-12 Friday; and 6-1am Saturday. 212-941-5405.