Some use the phrase "hole in the wall" proverbially, but tucked under the Brooklyn side of the Williamsburg bridge and most easily accessible by bike, the month-old Pies n' Thighs takes it quite literally. During a recent visit, three, including co-owners Steve Tanner and Sarah Buck, stood in the sweltering hot closet-sized kitchen manning the fryer, taking orders, slicing homemade bread, doling out pulled pork, and making fresh lemonade ($2)--somehow all at once. The line, only 4 bodies deep, was already snaking out the door, our necks straining to see the high-hung menu featuring delightfully greasy southern cooking.

Open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day but Monday, we quickly learned the hard lesson of first come, first serve. Pies n' Thighs serves 'til it's gone; by 8 p.m. on a Tuesday, they were out of their soon-becoming-famous fried chicken, cornbread, collard greens, and all pies but the key lime. Instead, we shared the fried catfish box ($8)-- two hearty fillets coated in a glistening, buttery cornmeal crust which lays atop a slice of pickle, mound of tangy coleslaw, homemade biscuit, healthy serving of tartar sauce (creamy but with kick!), and also comes with a side order. We opted for the baked beans, spicy pinto beans kicked up with hot sauce and topped with a dollop of Carolina-style pulled pork (doused in vinegar and hot sauce). The catfish was moist and the crust divine, though when we hit the middle of the fillet, found it slightly undercooked. Mac n' cheese, also spicy, was permeated by the distinct taste of Frank's Hot Sauce--definitely not a bad thing, but next time we'll come early enough for the collard greens.

All desserts are prepared in-house by Buck, the baker of the duo. Rhubarb, key lime, and peanut butter pies are three of a number that rotate in offering, all which come with a dollop of fresh whipped cream ($3.50 - $4). Cookies, rice crispy treats, and a rhubarb crumble were also available the night we went and at brunch you will find buckwheat pancakes and fresh donuts to get your sweet and greasy fill.

For a city always in search of good Southern cookin', when Pies n' Thighs says "tea" they mean sweet tea and there's no such thing as a vegetarian option. Portions are huge, and though the kitchen stops frying at 9 p.m., with Southern hospitality they let us relax at the outdoor tables until 10:30 p.m. on a recent night, enjoying the evening breeze and the view of the Williamsburg bridge, bikes propped up nearby.

Pies n' Thighs is located at 351 Kent Ave. (at S. 5th St.), Williamsburg. 347-282-6005. Open Tues - Sun, 10 a.m. - 9 p.m., closed on Mondays.