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Northeast Kingdom sits on the southwest corner of Wyckoff and Troutman streets in Bushwick, a block from the L train's Jefferson stop and myriad one-story warehouses and industrial spaces. Native Vermonters Paris Smeraldo and his wife, Meg Lipke, have invoked a funky ambiance with taxidermy and vintage wallpaper alongside a bar backed with orange and yellow stained glass. Throw in the flickering candlelight and you've got a place to linger for hours after dark.

Savory, comforting dishes like organic chicken pot pie and mac n' cheese made with a cave-aged gruyere are stars on a menu that isn't afraid to also make a stab at interpreting the traditional Vietnamese banh mi sandwich. Northeast Kingdom's version replaces pork with morsels of succulent duck for a sweet and spicy combination.

Among appetizers, the $4 dish of garlic oven fries is both the best bargain and supremely filling. Baked and then doused with a coarse salt, they are tasty enough to ingest without ketchup. The only disappointment of the night was an appetizer salad with bland figs and lackluster dressing that seemed more ornament than flavor. But that one misstep hardly stops Northeast Kingdom from being a surprisingly rustic urban oasis that's worth a special trip.

Northeast Kingdom is located at 18 Wyckoff Avenue (at Troutman Street), Bushwick, Brooklyn. (718) 386-3864.